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Adventures By Activity In Bolivia
Ice Climbing in Bolivia
Climbing and Mountaineering in Bolivia
Ice Climbing School
We have talked and drawn up our Ice Climbing Courses, keeping in mind to raise the level of our clients. We mentioned that “The best for our clients is to leave Bolivia thinking that they are The Heroes of the Mountain”. The objective of the courses is that our clients could feel happy at the end of the course they choose. "That they could talk and recommend our Ice Climbing Courses with other people and that they want to return in future”, either to do another course or to enter the Aspiring Mountain Guide Course. The location and the programs of our Ice Climbing Courses are very original. Also, in our programs, we have put really useful things.
Illampu 6382 meter/20932 feet
Illampu is considered to be an international celebrity, with ice and rock walls from 800 to 1200 meter. Illampu is one of the most coveted mountains by national and international expeditions. It is a challenging peak, even by the normal route. Its majestic presence is intimidating and daunting, at times climber's hopes stay in their backpacks. As it is isolated, expeditions require careful planning and consideration. Illampu dominates the landscape. To the southeast of the turquoise mantle of Lake Titikaka. Northwest of its summit, perched deep in the valleys and to the north the steaming jungles of the Yungas.
Ancohuma (Jankho Uma) 6427 meter/21080 feet
The southern aspect of Ancohuma has a long ridge, like a spinal column from which a number of smaller ridges branch off. It is a complex, imposing mountain, as impressive as many of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. As the crow flies, the distance from the north peak, to the "neck" is 3600 meter/11808 feet and twice those on foot. Ancohuma was first described in 1879. Located southwest of Illampu, it is separated from this mountain by a spiky mountainous ridge with Yakuma 6050 meter/19844 feet, Mamarini 5955 meter/19532 feet, and other lower altitude peaks. This magnificent mountain is seldom climbed.
Pico Schulze (Nevado Cotaña) 5942 meter/19489 feet
The Illampu massif, from the northern extreme of Pico del Norte to the southern extreme of Pico Shulze, is approximately 5 kilometer long. Erwin Hein, Alfred Hoeschowky, Hugo Hortangel, and Hans Pfann, from a German-Austrian expedition first climbed Pico Schulze, also known as the Cotaña Mountain in 1928. This expeditionary team left the largest biographical contribution in the Annals of the Cordillera Real. Pico Shulze has two steep walls of high technical difficulty. Between 1928 and 1973, various expeditions approached the mountain from the Titisani (4400 meter/14420 feet) and the Aguas Calientes base camps.
Pico del Norte/North Peak 6050 meter/19844 feet
First Climbed in 1928, Pico del Norte 6050 meter/19844 feet is the northernmost peak of the Illampu massif. This relatively unknown and seldom climbed peak consists of three principal pillars, shaped into a classic pyramid. These mixed pillars have a number of steep ice couloirs (70°). Picoo del Norte is an aesthetically elegant mountain with a number of attractive, intermediate and difficult, ice and rock routes. Pico del Norte is the extension of the eight peaks of the Illampu massif. It has a very long ridge interrupted by rock gendarmes and cornices. There are excellent possibilities for climbing new routes.
Condoriri 5648 meter/18525 feet
The native communities see Condoriri as a mystical mountain, one that controls not only the natural phenomena of the weather, but also the fauna and the flora. Each mountain occupies a special place in the Andean Cosmovision and Condoriri is one of Thunupa's creations. Condoriri is shaped like a Condor about to take flight. For climbers, closer to earth and less mystical and contemplative, it means 65° ice walls projected toward the sky. The eastern aspects of Condoriri have ice couloirs of 400 meters to 500 meters. The loose black rock is totally unsuited to climbing. The south face is only climbable during the coldest months.
Piramide Blanca/White Pyramid 5230 meter/ 17154 feet
This small mountain, with its close proximity to Condoriri base camp (Chiar Khota) and with an uncomplicated access, like Alpamayo Chico, attracted a lot of attention in recent years. The first ascent was by the bolivian Alfredo Martinez and the english Douglas Moore, who years later died in a mountain climbing accident. In the late 1950’s and early 1960’s A. Martinez climbed many mountains in the region such as the normal Wyoming route and Cerro Ilusionita. Piramide Blanca offers several shorter routes from 250 meter/820 feet to 300 meter/984 feet. The south face shows more technical difficulties, with an average angle of 60° to 70° in ice.
Pequeño Alpamayo 5379 meter/17643 feet
The South African couple Irene and Keith Whitelock, first climbed Pequeño Alpamayo or Alpamayo Chico, in August, 1962. In recent years it has become very popular, with hundreds of visitors every season. It is called Pequeño Alpamayo, because of its likeness to Alpamayo in Peru. Other peaks near Pequeño Alpamayo are: Pico del Medio 5355 meter/17564 feet, Punta Central 5400 meter/17712 feet, Pico Yugoslavia 5505 meter/18056 feet, Pico Reya 5495 meter/18023 feet, Traverse Pico Eslovenia 5480 meter/17646 feet to Pico del Medio 5355 meter/17564 feet.
Nevado Janko Laya 5545 meter/18187 feet
New road access to this mountain may increase interest and activity in this isolated region. Janko Laya has experienced marked glacier retreat in recent years. The first ascent of Janko Laya (Jankho Laya) is credited to a japanese team on September 23, 1970, via the southwest ridge. Janko Laya is part of the Negruni massif, whose 30 summits although below 6000 meter/19680 feet, show moderate difficulties. The mixed south faces are particularly challenging. Other peaks of the region: Pakokiuta 5589 meter/ 18331 feet, Wara Warani 5542 meter/18177 feet, Wilalloje 5596 meter/18354 feet, Jallawaya 5670 meter/18597 feet.
Las Tres Marías (The Three Marias)
A three peaked mountain, with the Eastern Peak closest to the Leche Khota (Milk Lake), 5420 meter/ 17777 feet, the Central Peak 5380 meter/17646 feet, and the Northeast Peak 5370 meter/17613 feet. The massif of Las Tres Marias is of lower altitude than other neighboring massifs, such as the Chajowara Group (Filo Runca) 5506 meter/18000 feet, or the Negruni Group (Wara Warani) 5395 meter/17695 feet. There are 600 meter/1968 feet long routes on this massif. There are many beautiful climbs throughout this region, with a number of steep ice couloirs. The normal route is straightforward.
Chachacomani 6074 meteer/19922 feet
After looking at this mountain it is impossible to remain indifferent. The German-Bolivian expedition of 1947 achieved the admirable first ascent. It was a crazy expedition, one that embodied the true spirit of adventure. The north section of the Chachacomani glacier is joined to the Chearoco glacier. The geography of the region is very complicated and the eastern aspects are often covered in clouds. With extensive terrains of snow and ice, this area is also privileged by stable weather and near perfect granite rock structures over 14 kilometer long. The world here has fallen asleep, peaceful and frozen, time has disappeared.
Chearoco 6127 meter/20096 feet
Quelluani 5912 meter/19391 feet
Sitting between the Calzada and Chachacomani mountains, Chearoco has very complicated glacier systems, it is very isolated and is rarely climbed. It seems to dominate the Altiplano and the Valleys. As the crow flies, the distance between Chearoco and Chachacomani is 7 kilometer. The pioneer Douglas Moore made many expeditions to this region in the 1950’s The first climbers to the summit were Austrians in 1928. Many years passed before the second ascent. Douglas Moore made the third ascent and G. Frey, and D. Schoodt achieved the fourth. There is very good camping throughout this area.There are 9 reported routes on Chearoco.
Huayna Potosí/Caca Aca 6088 meter/19968 feet
Huayna Potosí, only 25 kilometer away from La Paz is the most frequented mountain in Bolivia. It is almost certainly the most often climbed 6000 meter mountain in the world. Huayna Potosí is the destination of many tourists who wish to have the once in a lifetime opportunity of going beyond the magical 6000 meter/19680 feet mark. Fit, acclimatized tourists, can complete this ascent in a two day round trip from La Paz, and many fit, experienced climbers can do it in a full-day trip. There is little written about Huayna Potosí or Caca Aca. Huayna Potosí offers one universally accessible route, the normal route.
Tiquimani 5519 meter/18102 feet
Tiquimani, to the east of Huayna Potosi, is known as the guardian of the Zongo Valley. Its vertical south faces stands proud and sombre - an indefatigable sentinel. Compared to other mountains of the region, it is of low altitude, but this is more than compensated for by the technical challenges it presents. Only 3 kilometer long and 1.3 kilometer wide, it is a small mountain, with more complexities however than its size would suggest. The west and south faces are a labyrinth of rock and ice. Tiquimani is a respected mountaineer's mountain. Few climbers have ventured onto her granite walls and blue-green veins of ice.
Illimani 6462 meter/21195 feet
The illimani mountain has become such an attractive destination that an unprecedented number of jobs have been created in the villages surrounding the mountain. Over the last decades few new routes have been climbed on Illimani. Illimani has a magnetic attraction. The eccentric and genial Bolivian painter, Arturo Borda, best captured the essence of the mountain on canvas. It is the only mountain of Bolivia to be mentioned in the "Encyclopaedia of Mountains of the World" and three Spanish Mountain Encyclopaedias. The Illimani Massif is without a doubt the most recognised of the Cordillera Real.
Mururata 5775 meter/18942 feet
Mururata is the flat-topped mountain immediately south of Illimani. The normal route is long and tedious. The south and east faces are beautiful and technically demanding climbs with 800 to 1000 meter altitude gains. The quality of the rock is very poor, creating serious difficulties on the south face. The "decapitated" Mururata whose summit pyramid was struck off by Illimani during the mythic wars of Andean creation, has a summit plateau 8 kilometer long by 2 kilometer wide. The north face has been almost completely unexplored and seen from the subtropical valleys, there are vertical faces of 500 to 700 meter/2296 feet.
Sajama 6549 meter/21486 feet
According to scientific measurements and maps, Sajama is part of the Cordillera Occidental. it is the highest mountain in Bolivia and was first climbed in 1939. The volcano is situated in the Sajama National Park, a protected region where hunting is prohibited. The volcano is only a few kilometres from the custom point at Tambo Quemado on the Bolivia/Chile border and it is easily recognisable as it stands out from the rest of the volcanoes in the Cordillera Occidental. The Sajama National Park has an extraordinary biodiversity, and is of interest to scientists, archaeologists, and adventure tourists.
Payachatas: Parinacota 6330 meter/20767 feet
Pomerata 6222 meter/20400 feet
Marking the border between Bolivia and Chile, these volcanoes are also known as the "little brothers" of Sajama. They are technically vey straightforward to climb and were first described in the "Austrian Alpine Journal'' in 1905. Parinacota was first climbed in December, 1928. The twin brother of Parinacota, Pomerate was first climbed in 1946. The Payachatas are frequently climbed and are a very popular destination for tourists who come by jeep or to trek. Access to the Payachatas has been made easy thanks to the paved road. To the south of these volcanoes is Acotango 6050 meter/19844 feet, which also offers some good climbing opportunities.
The Sud Lipez region has, despite its isolation and barrenness received increasing numbers of visitors over recent years. This is one of the country’s most beautiful regions, with the natural attractions of the Laguna Colorada and Laguna Verde within the Reserva Eduardo Avaroa National Park. The windswept, barren railway town of Uyuni lies at an altitude of 3665 meter/12021 feet and is the gateway to the Sud Lipez region. Volcanoes: Uturuncu or Urturunku 6008 meter/19706 feet, Ollague 5870 meter/19253 feet, Cerro Quetena 5560 meter/ 18794 feet, Licancabur 5890 meter/19319 feet, Zapaleri 5660 meter/19319 feet.
Cordillera de Apolobamba
The Cordillera Apolobamba is one of the least explored mountain regions of the Andes. It was considered by many to be the hiding place of El Dorado or Paititi. The mountains of Apolobamba drop precipitously into the rainforest and jungle basin of the Madidi National Park, home of indigenous tribes. Apolobamba as described in the “National Geographic” magazine is one of the world’s most unique mountain and rainforest ecosystems. It has an extraordinary variety of cultures, and many as yet unclassified species of flora and fauna. There is so much to explore around Apolobamba.There has been a recent international interest in Apolobamba.
Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz
This beautiful mountain chain, sometimes referred to as the Tres Cruces or Three Crosses, offers the most isolated climbing in Bolivia.The northern regions of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz has very high quality rock structures, including solid clear and maroon granite. It is a paradise of difficult climbs with wall upon wall of excellent rock. Those who enjoy climbing in The Sierra Nevada or in the Alps will enjoy the Quimsa Cruz region. The southern part is made up of a number of glaciated peaks with altitudes varying between 5300 meter/17387 feet and 5800 meter/19024 feet. The area offers excellent opportunities for new routes.
Cordillera de Santa Vera Cruz
The first expedition to this area was in 1912, by a German/Swiss team.They found the isolated settlement of Huañacota and the Huarimanta Lake all within the hitherto unknown mountain range. The small Santa Vera Cruz group is located to the south of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz over the Tres Cruces or Three Crosses Pass 4600 meter/15088 feet. The range is 20 kilometer long and extends between Huañacota to the north and Ichoco to the south. The most magnificent peaks of the range are the Cerro de Santa Vera Cruz 5560 meter/18236 feet, Huarinata 5170 meter/16957 feet and the Pico Fortuna 5493 meter/18017 feet.
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